If you are looking to add a little bit of color to your report and make sure that it gets noticed this might be your chance. For years plastic comb binding spines were only available in black and white. Even today, more than ninety percent of the plastic comb binding market is represented by these two colors. However, many individuals don't realize that plastic combs are actually available in more than a dozen colors. These different colored combs are perfect for adding a splash of color or for matching with your companies colors. The most common colors of plastic comb binding spines are: Black, White, Navy Blue, Clear, Maroon (sometimes called Burgundy), Brown, Royal Blue, Red, Hunter Green, Grey (or Gray), Kelly Green, and Yellow. In addition to these colors combs are also available in a black matte finish, a clear frost matte finish and in several transparent gel colors such as Steel Blue and Amber. Although the matte and gel combs are only available in select sizes, all of the other colors of combs are available in sizes from 3/16" up to 2". Plastic combs from 3/16" up to 1-1/8" are round shaped and combs from 1-1/4" up to 2" are oval shaped. Many companies choose to match the color of their comb binding spine with the color of their logo. Additionally, binding covers can also be purchased to match the color of the plastic combs providing a uniform look and feel to your documents, reports, presentations and proposals. This co-ordination of colors can results in more eye catching and professional looking proposals that will catch the eye of your clients. Plastic combs can also be imprinted with a company logo, a company name or even a title of book or report. Using either silk screening or foil stamping it is possible to print almost anything on the spine of a plastic comb. If you have ever seen a cookbook bound with plastic combs you might have noticed it was imprinted with the title of the book. In the same way it is possible for you to brand your presentations and proposals for a highly professional look and feel. Unfortunately, plastic combs are not readily available in custom colors. Currently, in order to order a custom color of plastic combs you would have to buy an "extrusion" of plastic. In numbers, this means you would have to look at purchasing at least 10,000 combs. For most users this type of volume is simply not plausible. It is possible to have combs flood printed with a custom color (or a metallic finish such as gold or silver). However, this process is still very expensive and isn't realistic for most users.

Paper or Plastic? This is a question that you might expect at the checkout at the grocery store. However, it is also a questions you should ask yourself if you are searching for the right presentation cover for your needs. Nearly all presentation binding covers fall into one of two categories; paper and plastic. This article is designed to help you better understand the strengths and weaknesses of paper and plastic binding covers along with the different options that are available for your presentations and proposals. Binding covers made from paper are some of the most popular covers available on the market. Paper presentation covers are a popular choice for companies that are looking for an elegant and professional appearance. They are available in a huge variety of colors and textures to fit almost any need and can often be matched to a company's logo or color scheme. Some of the most popular varieties of paper covers include; linen weave (with an embossed linen pattern), grain (with a leather grain pattern), regency (with a vinyl coating for a leather like look and feel), twill (with a fine ribbed pattern) and metallic covers (with a sparkling metallic look). Some of these varieties are available in dozens of colors while others are available in just a few. Some of these paper stocks are available in multiple sizes while others are available in a limited selection of sizes. Depending on the sizes and colors that you need, this may help to make your decision a little bit simpler. While many users prefer the look and feel of paper stocks, others opt for the durability offered by plastic binding covers. These companies prefer the protection from moisture, heat and tearing that plastic covers offer. Plastic presentation reportcovers are available in two primary styles... 1. Many companies choose to use a clear plastic coversheet on the front of their documents or reports to protect the contents and allow their clients to see the printing on their title page. Clear cover sheets are available in thicknesses ranging from 4mil economy grade to ultra heavy duty 15mil sheets. Clearcovers are somewhat prone to scratching and are often packaged with tissue in between each cover to prevent scratching. They also tend to generate lots of static and can be difficult to separate. 2. As an alternative to clearview covers, other companies choose polycovers. These are made out of poly plastic and are available in thicknesses between 12mil and 19mil. These covers often have an embossed pattern such as leather grain, crystal, sand or stripe. They are available in transparent, translucent and opaque colors. This makes them perfect for either the front or the back of documents and reports. There are pros and cons to using both of these types of binding covers. Some companies choose plastic, some companies choose paper and other companies choose plastic on the front and paper on the back. Whatever your choice, there are some great options available to you.

Customers often call me and ask for help choosing a binding system for their thick documents. This article is designed to give a quick overview of the different binding styles available for binding large sized documents. Here is a quick overview... 1. Plastic Comb Binding: Plastic Comb binding can handle documents up to two inches thick using oval shaped binding combs. Plastic combs is by far the least expensive way to bind large sized documents. These oval shaped combs include special locks to prevent pages from falling out. Plastic binding combs are available in 12 different colors and in a number of sizes up to 2". 2. Twin Loop Wire: Twin loop wire binding spines (also known as wire-o, double loop wire or Wirebind Spines) are commonly available in sizes up to 1-1/4". However, 1-1/2" twin loop wire binding spines are now available in Black only. If you are going to use these larger sized twin loop wire binding supplies you need to make sure that you have a 2:1 pitch wire binding machine and if you elect to use the 1-1/2" wire binding spines you need to check to make sure that your binding machine has a wire closer capable of handling 1-1/2" wire elements.. 3. Spiral Coil: Spiral coil binding supplies are available in sizes up to 50mm (approximately 2") in diameter. However, spiral coil spines larger than 1 inch (25mm) can be difficult to use. Using 2" spiral coil is very much like trying to insert a slinky onto the edge of a book. Just imagine the fun J However, if you do decide to use spiral coil binding for your large sized books make sure that you check out our article on using Spiral Coil with Large Sized books.. 4. Velobind: GBC Velobind and GBC SureBind are the only binding systems available on the market capable of binding books up to 3 inches thick. Using the Velobind System 3 or the SureBind System 3 you can bind documents as small as one page or as large as 3" thick. Plus, you only need three sizes of binding strips to bind all of your documents making it cheaper and easier to order supplies. Velobind is a great option for binding large books. However, Velobind does not allow your documents to lay flat and does not allow for easy editing.. 5. Thermal Binding: Thermal binding covers are available for documents up to two inches thick. Using a binding machine such as the Covermate 700 you can bind your thick documents using your thermal binding machine. The only drawback is that you need to have covers sized to your exact document size and the covers must be custom made (they take about 2 weeks). For companies that use one or two sizes of documents, thermal binding can be a good option. However, if you do a large number of sizes the supplies for thermal binding large documents can get somewhat expensive. 6. Unibind: Unibind binding spines and covers are available in sizes up to 36mm thick (approximately 1-1/2" thick) and can accommodate up to 340 sheets of 20lb paper. Like thermal binding, you have to match the size of your cover or spine to the size of your document requiring you to stock a variety of supplies. However, Unibind does allow you to purchase supplies in smaller quantities and their supplies are stocked making them more readily available than supplies for Thermal Binding. 7. Screw Posts: If all else fails and you need to bind a document larger than 3" you can always consider using Screw Posts. Screw Posts (also known as Chicago Screws) are available in sizes up to 4" in length and can be extended using screw post extensions. You could potentially bind documents up to 5" or 6" thick using these screw posts. If you are still not sure what binding system might be right for binding your large sized documents please feel free to contact us and we would be glad to help you make your decision.

Do you need to create a name badge or ID Tag? You are not alone. The most common use of the pouch laminators that we sell is to laminate cards and ID badges. However, up until now if you wanted a small laminating pouch with a slot you were limited to the luggage tag size of laminating pouch. However, this past week MyBinding began offering all of the small sized laminating pouches that we carry with your choice of a short side or long side slot. Many users who produce large numbers of name badges and ID tags will purchase a badge slot punch and punch slots in their own badges. However, a slot punch costs almost $50 and many users simply don’t need to produce enough name badges to justify the cost of a slot punch. For these users, or for users who want to save the time of sitting and punching hundreds of name badges , prepunched laminating pouches are ideal. Laminating pouches with slots are used by many companies and individuals along with lanyards, luggage loops, luggage straps and badge clips to produce high quality ID badges and name tags. However, laminating pouches and laminated documents often have to be punched one at a time making punching slots a very time consuming effort. Laminating pouches with prepunched slots are a great way to save time (and we all know that time is money). MyBinding.com is proud to offer: Small Bookmark Laminating Pouches with Slots, Credit Card Laminating Pouches with Slots, Business Card Laminating Pouches with Slots, Drivers License Laminating Pouches with Slots, Large Bookmark Laminating Pouches with Slots, School Size Laminating Pouches with Slots, Key Card Size Laminating Pouches with Slots, Luggage Tag Laminating Pouches with Slots, Military / Government Laminating Pouches with Slots, IBM Data Laminating Pouches with Slots, Jumbo Card Laminating Pouches with Slots, Large Jumbo Size Laminating Pouches with Slots, File Index Card Size Laminating Pouches with Slots, Postal Size Laminating Pouches with Slots, Circulation Size Laminating Pouches with Slots, and Extra Circulation Size Laminating Pouches with Slots. Plus, you can choose either a short side or a long side slot with any of these sizes making it possible for you to fully customize your Laminated ID Cards and Name Badges. We can even punch GBC Premium Heatseal Laminating pouches for you if you would like.

A few times a month I will get a call from someone looking to rebind a document that has begun to fall apart. Sometimes they are looking to add pages, sometimes to subtract pages or sometimes they are simply looking to replace a binding element that has become old and worn. However, most of the time these individuals have a hard time knowing exactly what type of binding style to choose for use with their documents. This article is designed to provide a quick overview of the different hole patterns used for binding documents. Before you read on, you might want to count the number of holes used on your document since each of the hole patterns will be identified by the number of holes that it uses along an 11" edge of a piece of paper. 1. Plastic Comb Binding uses 19 rectangular shaped holes spaced evenly along the edge of the document. This hole pattern is also used with GBC ZipBind. 2. Twin loop wire binding uses one of two different hole patterns. * 3:1 pitch twin loop wire binding uses a hole pattern with 32 holes along the eleven inch edge of the document. These holes are more often than not slightly rectangular but are sometimes round. * 2:1 pitch twin loop wire binding uses a hole pattern with 21 holes along the eleven inch edge of the document. Holes for 2:1 pitch wire binding are usually square but are sometime round. 3. Plastic Spiral coil is generally used on documents with either 43 or 44 holes along the eleven inch side. This type of spiral coil pattern would be called 4:1 pitch coil (since it has 4 holes per inch). However, a few users will use a 54 or 55 hole pattern with 5:1 pitch spiral coil. This is somewhat unusual but is used by some commercial printers. 4. GBC Velobind uses a hole pattern with eleven small round holes along the eleven inch side of the document. Velobind is also available in an 4 hole pattern and a 6 hole pattern. However, the holes for 4 pin, 6 pin and 11 pin Velobind binding all line up making it possible to interchange these strips using 11 pin paper. 5. GBC SureBind uses a hole pattern with 10 small round holes along the 11 inch edge of the document. These holes are not equally spaced like Velobind but instead are spaced unevenly so that users of SureBind can use the 19 hole Comb Bind pattern with their machine. 6. GBC Proclick uses the same 3:1 pitch hole pattern that is used with 3:1 pitch twin loop wire. However, users of the GBC Proclick Pronto use a special 3:1 pitch hole pattern that has 32 large oversized square holes. These oversized holes make it easier for the Proclick Pronto to insert the Proclick binding spines onto the edge of the document. These six different hole patterns are the most common patterns used for binding documents today. However, if you have a document that uses a different hole pattern it may be possible to find a binding style that is compatible. Just remember, it never hurts to ask.

In the United States most businesses at some point will have to seek some type of lending assistance. Whether it is for business start, business expansion, or just to cover the expenses during an ...

Perfect binding is one of the most common forms of book binding today. It is typically the style of book binding used for most paper back books and phone books. The problem is that true perfect book binding systems are quite expensive, and not conducive to a single book or to the beginner. It is now possible to create a perfect bound book with your Thermal Book Binding System!

Hundreds of thousands of companies across the country have a plastic comb binding machine sitting in their offices. However, many companies have decided that plastic comb binding does not present the professional image that they are looking for. Over the years, plastic comb binding has become more and more common and the look and feel that it represents has become less desirable for professional presentations and proposals. However, if you have a plastic comb binding machine and are looking for an alternative to traditional plastic comb binding you might want to consider GBC Zipbind. Zipbind uses the same hole pattern as plastic binding combs but offers a reclosable solution with a completely new look and feel. This article is designed to provide a simple set of instructions for binding documents using Zipbind. Here are five steps for binding documents with Zipbind binding spines. 1. The first step for binding documents using Zipbind is to assemble your document. After printing the pages for your document you need to assemble the document along with the binding covers and any index dividers or inserts that you want to add to the document. 2. After you have assembled your document, you can choose the size of Zipbind spine that is most appropriate for your document. Currently there are only two sizes of Zipbind binding spines available. Small (3/8") and Medium (1/2"). Depending on the thickness of your document, you will need to round up to the size slightly larger than your document. It is also important to note that zipbind binding spines are only available in 11" lengths so they are not a good option for binding half size documents or documents with longer binding edges. 3. After you have selected the appropriate size of Zipbind binding spine you will need to select the color for your spines. Currently there are two colors available for Zipbind binding: Black and Frost. 4. After preparing your document, and selecting the size and color of the Zipbind spine, you can finally start the binding process. You are ready to punch the pages. Depending on the binding machine that you are using, punching your document will work differently. Most manual binding machines involve inserting small stacks of paper into the punching slot and pulling the handle to punch the holes. If you have an electric comb binding machine you will either press the button or use the foot pedal to punch the document. 5. After your document is punched you will need to take the Zipbind spine that you have chosen and prepare it for binding your document. In order to make the binding process go easier you will want to crease your spine slightly so that it will close more easily. You will then want to take the spine and insert it through the holes of your document. The easiest way to do this tends to be to hold the document with one hand and use the other hand to string the Zipbind spine through the holes. If you have a hard time inserting the pages onto the spine this way, each box of zipbind comes with a special tool that will set on your comb opener. This provides a place to hang your Zipbind spines while you insert the pages onto the spine. 6. Once the spine has been threaded through the holes of the document you will need to snap the first few loops shut manually using your hand. After you have snapped the first few loops shut you can use the Zipbind zipper tool (one is included in every box of Zipbind strips) to zip the rest of the spine shut. Zipbind binding spines provide a new modern look for your reports and presentations. Documents bound with Zipbind allow for 360 degree rotation, allow for easy editing

If you are looking for a highly professional and elegant binding style you might be considering twin loop wire binding (also called wire-o, double loop or double-o binding). This binding style uses a piece of coated steel wire that is bent into a "C" shape to provide an excellent and professional bound look to documents, presentations and proposals. This type of binding provides and excellent look and feel. However, if you have never bound a document with wire-o binding you might be a little bit confused as to how this binding style works. Here is a quick step by step guide to binding documents with twin loop wire. 1. The first step to binding documents using double loop wire is to prepare your document. If you are going to use paper or plastic binding covers you should assemble your books with the covers in place. You will often find that your punch will be more effective if you punch the covers as part of the book instead of by themselves (if you are using oversize covers you will need to punch them by themselves since they are not the same size as the pages from your document). After you have assembled your document you need to measure your book so that you can choose the correct size of binding wire for your presentation. In order to choose the correct size of wire-o spine just measure the thickness of the document (do not compress the pages) and add 1/8" to allow your pages to move freely. If your document is less than 5/8" then you will use 3:1 pitch wire and if it is 5/8" or thicker you will need to use 2:1 pitch wire. 2. The second step to binding documents with twinloop wire is to set up your wire binding machine. Setting up your punch really isn't that hard. However, you will need a few pieces of blank paper for testing your machine. You will notice that the binding table on your machine should have a paper guide to help you insert the paper so that the holes will be centered on the page. Most machines will have a marking on the binding table for the most common sizes of paper. This marking is a starting point to getting your machine set up. Simply move the paper guide to the correct marking, insert a sheet of paper into the punching slot and pull the punching handle on the side of the machine (or press the punching button if your machine is electric). After you have done this, take the piece of punched paper and fold it in half to check and see if the holes line up. If you notice that you have a half hole hanging over the edge of the document you may need to pull one of the punching pins above the punching slot to prevent that pin from punching. If all the holes are lined up and centered you are ready to punch your documents, if they don't, you will need to move the paper guide and punch another piece of paper until you get the document set up. 3. After your machine is set up, you are ready to punch your document. For best results, it is important that you separate your books into small sections. To prolong the life of your punch you should not try to punch the maximum capacity of your punch with every lift. Depending on the machine that you have you will most likely be able to punch between 10-15 pages per lift although some smaller machines may not be able to punch this many pages. Just remember that by punching smaller lifts, you can prevent paper jams and actually increase your productivity. As you punch the sections of your document simply stack them up beside the punch so that they are ready to have the plastic combs added to them. It is often helpful to offset stack the documents to make them easier to pick up during when you insert the pages onto the wires. 4. Now that your documents are punched, the next step is to insert them onto the double loop wires. Most twin loop wire binding machines have a wire hanger built into them. There should be either a set of hooks on the front of the machine or a small section of the machine that will lift up to allow you to slide your wire binding element into place. Simply place your wire binding spine into the wire holder and then place the holes of your document onto the fingers of the c shaped binding spine. If your book is small you may be able to insert the entire book onto the wire in one motion. However, if the book is larger you might need to split the document into smaller sections in order to make the inserting process more manageable. 5. The final step in binding your documents with twin loop wire is to carefully move the wire off the wire hanger and to the wire closer. Being sure that the wire closer is set to the appropriate wire diameter place the twin loop wire into the wire closer with open part of the C facing up. Then pull the wire closer handle allowing the closer to squeeze the wire into a round shape, finishing the binding. After you have finished one book you can simply repeat the process for each proceeding book. One thing to keep in mind when binding books with wire is that if you initially bind the back cover on the front of your book you can flip it around to the back when you are finished the binding to hide the binding spine giving your documents a more professional look.

If you are looking for a binding style to produce high quality documents, presentations, reports, proposals and photobooks you might be considering Unibind. Binding documents with Unibind is easier than many other binding styles since Unibind does not require any punching. However, if you have never used a Unibind binding machine it can be a little bit difficult to figure out. This article is designed to provide a simple, step by step guide to binding documents using a Unibind system. Here are five simple steps to binding documents with Unibind. 1. The first step to binding documents with Unibind is to prepare the pages for your document. Using a laser printer, inkjet printer or photocopier you can print the pages to insert into your document. With Unibind, you can use most different weights to print your document (20lb, 24lb, 28lb, 32lb and even photo paper). 2. After you have assembled your document, you need to select the correct size of spine. The easiest way to do this is to simply take a ruler and measure the thickness of the assembled book. Unibind spines are measured in millimeters so you will need a ruler that has both imperial and metric units on it. Unlike most of the punch and bind types of binding when you measure your book for Unibind you don't need to add additional room to the spine. However, you always want to make sure that you round up and not down when choosing Unibind spines since it will be impossible to fit your pages into a spine that is too small. 3. The third step in binding documents using a Unbind Binding Machine is to choose the right type of Unibind binding cover. There are a number of different types of Unibind covers enabling you to give your documents a different look and feel. SteelCrystal covers have a clear front and back cover with a steel spine. SteelMat covers have a frosted front and back cover with a steel spine. Steelbooks provide the ability to bind high end presentations and proposals using in a hard cover format. Unibind Photobooks provide an option for binding high end landscape hard cover documents with windows. Finally, Unibind Steelback spines allow you to use your own high quality printed covers to provide fully customized reports with the look of a perfect bound book. 4. After you printed your book, measured the size and chosen your cover you are finally ready to finish the binding process. Simply take the pages of your document and square them up so that they are flush. Insert the pages into the steel spine of the Unibind cover that you have chosen and ensure that all of the pages are firmly seated in the spine. Finally set the spine of the book onto the heating unit of your Unibind binding machine. You will notice that the Unibind machine does not have an on or off switch. Instead, the binding machine will recognize the steel from the spine of the document and turn itself on. When the document is finished binding, the green light on your Unibind machine will come on. You can simply move the bound document onto the cooling rack and begin binding the next document. In all, the whole process of binding a document with Unibind should take less than 2 minutes and you can even bind multiple documents at one time. Documents bound with Unibind provide an excellent and strong bind with one of the most professional looking binds available on the market.

If you have recently purchased or are considering the purchase of a new spiral coil binding machine you might need to know how to bind documents with this type of binding. Coil binding is one of the most flexible binding styles available on the market and is really not that difficult once you get the hang of it. Here is a simple, step by step guide to binding documents using plastic coil... 1. The first step to binding documents with spiral coil is to prepare your completed document. Before you ever use your binding machine you need to take the time to print and assemble your document. If you are going to add index tabs, a front and back cover or any other special inserts you need to insert them into you document at this point before you ever start punching. 2. After you have a completely assembled your document you are ready to select the correct size of spiral coil for your book. If you have a spine measuring device you can simply hold your completed book (do not compress the pages) up to spine measuring device. If you don't have a spine measuring device you can use a ruler to measure the thickness of your book. Spiral coil supplies are measured in millimeters and not inches so you will need a ruler with metric sizes. Just be sure to add 2mm to the uncompressed thickness of your book to be sure that the pages will turn freely. If your document is larger than 30mm you can still bind it with spiral coil but it can be a little bit tricky (sort of like trying to put a slinky on the edge of a book). Before you attempt this you should look on the web for tips and tricks for binding thick documents with spiral coil. 3. Now that you have assembled your book and determined the correct size of coil to use you are ready to start punching. However, before you punch your first page you need to make sure that the coil binding machine is set up correctly. In order to do this you need to take a few pages of scrap paper that are the same size as the pages you are binding and make sure that the holes are centered on your document. If the holes are not centered you will need to move the edge guide slightly to center the holes. If you have a hole that is hanging off the edge of the page you will need to pull one of the pins on the front of your machine to prevent that pin from punching. After you are satisfied that the holes are centered on the page, you are ready to start punching. Depending on your machine you are going to punch your document in sections between 10-20 pages (some large punches can probably handle a few more pages than this). To get the best results, you shouldn't punch the full capacity of your machine with every lift. You will get a cleaner punch, have less paper jams and prolong the life of your punch if you aren't trying to punch the maximum capacity of your machine with every stack. 4. Once your documents are punched, you are ready to start assembling them. If your binding machine has an electric coil inserter on the front of it this will be a lot easier but if it doesn't the process is essentially the same. With an electric inserter you start the coil through the first few holes of the document and then use the rollers to spin the coil through the rest of the holes. If you don't have an electric inserter you simply spin the coil through the holes by hand. Standard spiral coils are usually 1" longer than the length of your binding edge, this will leave you with extra coil hanging off each end of the book. 5. The final step in binding documents with spiral coil is to crimp the ends of the coil so that the spiral cannot spin back off the document. A special pair of crimping pliers is used to cut off the excess coil and to bend the end of the coil over so that it can't spin back through the holes. Crimping documents can be a little bit tricky but it is a lot easier if you remember that the red dot on your crimping pliers should always face up. After you have finished crimping the coil on your documents your document is finished and ready use. Spiral coil binding is one of the most versatile binding styles offering more than 60 colors of binding spines, is flexible and perfect for mailing.

For businesses who like the look of documents bound with traditional hot knife Velobind systems but don't want to spend thousands of dollars on a binding machine GBC four pin reclosable Velobind strips are idea. Likewise, four pin reclosable Velobind strips are also ideal for organizations that own an 11 pin Velobind binding system but need the ability to easily add and remove pages from their documents. Four pin Velobind strips are easy to use, look great and provide a wonderful economical for binding your documents. This article is designed to provide a quick and easy how to guide for binding documents, reports and presentations with reclosable Velobind binding strips. 1. The first step for binding documents with reclosable Velobind strips is to prepare your document. After you have printed the pages for your document you need to assemble it along with any index tabs, inserts and binding covers that you intend to use. Remember that since the Velobind strips are only available in 11" lengths that you will not want to use oversize binding covers with your document. 2. After you have assembled your document you will need to punch the document. There are three primary options for punching your document. You can use a four pin Velobind punch such as the Velobind V110e electric punch. You can use an 11 pin hot knife Velobind punch (these start at about $1000). Although the Velobind hot knife system will punch 11 holes, the four pins will line up with four of the holes in the punch pattern and the binding strip will hide the rest of the holes. Alternatively, you can buy Velobind prepunched binding paper and covers and print directly onto the pages so that you don't need any binding machine at all. 3. After the document is punched, it is time to apply the binding strips. Velobind four pin strips come in two parts (a binding comb and a receiving strip). The easiest way to bind documents with four pin strips is to start with the binding comb and insert the pins through the holes of the document. It is important that you start inserting the pins through the front of the document so that finished side of the binding strip faces up when you look at the front of your document. After inserting the comb through the holes of the document you need to flip the document over and place the receiving strip onto the back of the book with the pin sticking through the holes in the strip and the grooves facing outward. 4. The final step in binding the document is to snap the excess part of the pin that is sticking out of the back of the receiving strip into the grooves. Each four pin Velobind binding machine comes with a special tool that is designed to help you knock the pins down into the receiving strip. This small gray tool can also be used to debind documents for editing. If you don't have one of these tools, you can simply use your fingers to bend the pins over and snap the pins in place. Binding documents with four pin Velobind strips is very easy and unlike documents bound with a hot knife system you do not have to cut the strip apart to edit the document. Following the above four steps it should be very simple to bind documents using reclosable Velobind strips.